20 October, 2013

Winter Squash Cheesecake with Pecan Streusel

Last fall, I set out to make a homemade pumpkin pie. I went to the Soulard Farmer's Market in St. Louis in search of a pie pumpkin, but all the farmers I talked to agreed that I should forgo the pumpkin for other types of winter squash. I settled on an orange striped cushaw squash. The farmer told me that the texture was similar to a butternut (meaning not stringy) but with a sweeter, nuttier flavor. It was almost 2 feet long, gourd-shaped, and a beautiful light orange with white stripes. It was a lot of squash to bake, but worth it. We used it to make a delicious pie with a decadent amaretto mascarpone mousse. It was the perfect end to a fall day spent playing in the leaves at Forest Park. I remember packing two pieces "to-go" for C to take with him on the plane back to Houston. It seems like all of those flights between Houston and St. Louis were a lifetime ago. I am grateful that we now live in the same city.

This past Saturday, it felt like fall might have finally made its way to Houston. When we woke up, it was chilly and the sky was a bit overcast. C put on a flannel shirt and I chose a sweater. It turned out to be a lovely, sunny day, though the high was only 67º. We met a friend for pastries, stopped at a coffee shop, grabbed lunch at the Korean Festival, and picked out pumpkins to paint (since they rot too quickly once they've been carved). While perusing the bins of pumpkins, I came across a bin of "decorative squash." I got excited thinking I might find a cushaw squash. Sure enough! There weren't any orange cushaws but there were a number of green cushaw squash to choose from. Since the price was per squash instead of per pound, C picked out the biggest one.


So far we've only prepared the neck and it made over 5 cups of puree! I'm hoping to cook the bottom bit by bit to use in dishes that call for chunks of cooked squash instead of puree. We'll probably be eating cushaw squash everything for the next month. Serendipitously, we have overnight visitors every weekend for the next 3 weeks, so we'll have plenty of mouths to feed! Plus, sleepovers are the best excuse for cinnamon rolls and I'm already dreaming up a cushaw squash version! In the meantime, I decided to make a cushaw squash cheesecake.

I met C on a chilly October morning two years ago. Later that evening, while we were talking at a Halloween party, it came up I liked to bake. He asked my specialty. I told him cheesecake (though I have no idea why). He keeps pointing out that we've been dating over a year and a half and I have yet to bake him a cheesecake. This one should satisfy him for at least another year!

Objective
Make a layered cheesecake using a cushaw squash. The filling was adapted from Pumpkin Streusel Cheesecake from Chocolate and Carrots and the crust is based on Graham Cracker Crust from The Kitchn.

Materials
For the crust:
2 cups graham cracker/gingersnap/coconut shortbread crumbs (or any combination thereof)
2 tbsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground ginger (omit if using gingersnaps)
pinch nutmeg
pinch cloves
6 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

For the cheesecake:
8 oz. reduced fat cream cheese
1/4 cup granulated white sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1 egg
2 tbsp. sour cream or Greek yogurt
1/4 cup winter squash puree (see Supplementary Materials)
1 tsp. light brown sugar
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ginger
pinch cloves
pinch nutmeg

For the streusel topping:
1/2 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup light brown sugar
pinch cinnamon
1/4 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes

Methods
1. Preheat the oven to 350º.
2. Make the crust: Crumble the graham crackers/cookies into a food processor. Add the sugar and spices. Process until the graham crackers are fine crumbs. Stir in the melted butter until well combined. Pat into a 9" pie plate, making sure to cover the bottom and sides. Set aside.
3. Make the filling: Cream the cream cheese, sugar, and vanilla until smooth. Beat in the egg, then stir in the sour cream. Pour all but 1/2 cup of the batter into the graham cracker crust. Use a spatula to move the filling to the edges and smooth into an even layer. Stir the pumpkin/squash puree, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, cloves, and nutmeg into the remaining 1/2 cup filling. Pour over the bottom cheesecake layer and spread evenly. Bake at 350º for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare the streusel topping.
3. Make the streusel topping: Combine the streusel ingredients in a medium sized bowl. Rub the butter into the sugar to form a crumble topping. Set aside. Once the cheesecake has baked for 20 minutes, remove it from the oven. Sprinkle the crumble topping in an even layer over the cheesecake. Return to the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until the center of the cheesecake has set. Cool completely on a wire rack, then refrigerate overnight before serving.

Results
The crust was aromatic and flavorful (for full disclosure: I used 1 package of graham crackers and as many coconut shortbread cookies as it took to make 2 cups of crumbs). The cheesecake layer was thin but creamy with the flavor of pumpkin pie. The topping lent a crunch and was buttery and just sweet enough.

Discussion and Future Directions
This was a huge hit! We took it to a birthday party and came home with just one slice that was missing its tip. Everyone happily devoured their piece and I know at least one person had a second. The only complaint was that I didn't make two (after I shared that the original recipe made 2 cheesecakes). I was proud of myself for only making one because I suspected that if I'd made two, two would have been eaten. I was also very pleased that the pecan streusel turned out well after halving both the butter and the sugar. I certainly didn't miss either and actually thought that the butter could be reduced a bit more.

The only other change I might make in the future would be to make 1.5x the filling. The amount of filling here is the perfect amount for a store-bought graham cracker crust (because they're a little smaller than 9"). I think this turned out great (and lower calorie) as I made it, but it would have been nice to see a little bit more of the winter squash layer. Alternatively, I could put the squash layer on the bottom and the white layer on top. To tell it true, this recipe doesn't need tweaking! Plus, it would make a wonderful addition to a Thanksgiving table in addition to or in place of pumpkin pie.

Supplementary Materials


Winter Squash Puree
(For example: pumpkin, cushaw, butternut, delicata, or kabocha)
Preheat the oven to 350º. Line a baking sheet with greased foil. Remove the stem of the squash and cut the squash in half the long way. Scoop out the seeds and place the squash cut-side-down onto the prepared baking sheet. Bake until a fork easily pierces the skin and flesh of the squash. Depending on the size of your squash, this could range from 30 minutes to 90 minutes. Let the squash cool until you can touch it without burning your fingers. Scoop the flesh from the skin and process it in the food processor or blender until smooth. *If you're lucky enough to find a cushaw, you'll probably want to cut off the stem and the neck and prepare the neck and base of the squash separately.

04 October, 2013

Review: Homemade Shredded Coconut [Oatmeal]

Did you know that you can make homemade unsweetened shredded coconut? You can! A few months ago when we had a friend in town, we went to the Mexican market to check out the produce.  The boys saw people walking around drinking coconuts and began to reflect on the spring break trip they took to Cancun their first year of college. They decided to get a coconut each for old times' sake. After they finished the coconut water, they had already cracked open coconuts that I refused to let go to waste. The last coconut we had went into Coconut Pancakes from the Homesick Texan. We've had a few flavors of pancakes this past year and coconut was my favorite by a long shot (C's favorite was Maple Chorizo Crumpets from Little Goat in Chicago; he frequently asks why I've never made them again).

However, our friend follows a strict diet that I can't really explain. All I know is that he doesn't eat grains or milk, so pancakes were out. I was planning a big Ethiopian meal, so I didn't really want to bake. I was determined not to let the boys throw the coconuts in the trash, so how could I preserve them? Shredded coconut! I got out the food processor and put in the shredding disc. I fed chunks of the coconut through the feeding tube and let the food processor do it's magic. To be honest, it wasn't as easy as I'd expected. While a portion of the coconut shredded, a significant amount got stuck in odd places. Anyway, I took about half of what was shredded, spread it out on a baking sheet lined with foil, and baked at 250º until the coconut started to desiccate (and brown a bit). I let it cool completely and stored it in a glass container with a tight seal. I've had it at room temperature for the past two months and it's still good. I froze the rest of the shredded coconut fresh to use for other things (um, pancakes).

I'm starting to worry about my homemade shredded coconut going bad (though with the amount of fat in coconut, it's probably not a huge concern). I stirred some into yogurt with granola, threw a little into a smoothie, used about 1/2 cup in a 9x9 pan of Dark Chocolate Chunk Oatmeal Bars from Half Baked Harvest, and added some to coconut oatmeal in an effort to use up coconut milk (see recipe below). I've still got about 1/2 cup that I think I'll save to use as topping to make something extra pretty. Because it's already a little toasted, it's extremely convenient!

Coconut Oatmeal For Two
Based on April Bloomfield's English Porridge
3/4 cup water
3/4 cup coconut milk (or other milk)
1/4 cup steel cut oats
1/4 cup old-fashioned oats
pinch salt
1 tbsp. flaxseed meal
2 tbsp. to  1/4 cup shredded coconut (why not homemade?!)
1 tsp. to 1 tbsp. brown sugar, to taste

Bring water and coconut milk to a boil. Add steel cut oats, old fashioned oats, and a pinch of salt. Simmer until the oatmeal thickens and reaches the consistency you desire. Stir in the flaxseed meal, shredded coconut, and brown sugar. Sprinkle with more shredded coconut and brown sugar before serving.



HOMEMADE SHREDDED COCONUT: The Verdict
If I bought a coconut for something and had leftover coconut, I would definitely do this again. The roasting/desiccating method produces pre-toasted unsweetened shredded coconut. From 2 coconuts, I had at least 3 cups of shredded coconut (and it gains volume when it dries). To buy that at the grocery store would cost an arm and a leg compared to my $3 coconuts! Freezing the coconut may be equally convenient for baking or cooking and is certainly easier to prepare, but wouldn't be best for the beautifully browned toasted bits that make everything prettier. This makes a great DIY day project!